So Satay finally opened its doors to the public a couple of weeks ago. Last Friday, my wife and I went to the only Malaysian restaurant in Vegas.
Satay is at the corner of Spring Mountain Rd and Valley View. Spring Mountain Rd is Vegas Chinatown. Naturally, the building looks like a chinese temple. Satay shares the building with Starbucks and T-Mobile. The parking lot seems a little too small. But because it's small it always seems to be packed - good for business.

My first criticism about the building itself is the lack of lighting. It's important for a restaurant to be bright. People like to dine in bright places, especially in Vegas where you need to live up to the casino lighting standards. The restaurant has glass windows all around. Unfortunately, one of the windows let you peek behind the bar. And usually behind the bar is not a pretty sight. You see a lot of hoses and metal sinks.
The entrance is just typical glass doors. Not a bad thing, but not too interesting either. We were first greeted by a waterfall glass screen. Classy. The hostess then sat us at a table in the smoking area because the non-smoking area was full. No big deal because nobody was smoking in the smoking area at that time.
We looked at the menus. Typical Malaysian restaurant menu. No surprises there. We went straight for the Malaysian favorites:
roti canai $3.50,
nasi lemak $7.95 and
beef rendang with rice $8.95. Hmm... may be some
kangkung belacan later if the portions were too small.
The waitress was nice. She's not Malaysian. I can tell from the way she speaks english. Because Malaysians learn British english at school but watch American shows at home, we spell "colour" with an 'u' but speak with an accent that is closer to the American accent. Since a lot of Malaysian chinese speak english and we watch chinese shows from Hong Kong, we have developed our own Malaysian english accent. We tend to inject into our sentences sounds adopted from the Hong Kong slangs such as "meh", "ah", "loh" that do not mean anything by themselves but would emphasize emotion - "You serious, meh?", "Why you so like that, ah?", "You tell him, loh." Malaysians who have lived in english speaking countries for a long time tend to lose that accent because we would only get a puzzled "Huh?" if we kept our accent. So that we don't sound funny, we dropped those weird sounds but kept the rest. Our intonation would still tell that we are Malaysians.
An Introduction to Malaysian Food
Anyway, first, some introduction to the food...
Roti canai was originally known as
paratha, a crispy South Indian Flatbread.
Paratha is a plain pastry. But creative Malaysians started to stuff butter, eggs, bananas and sardines in the flatbread and thus
roti canai was born.
Roti canai is usually served with chicken curry. There are many types of
roti.
Roti paper is a flatbread so thin it disintegrates into tiny flakes if you apply a little too much pressure, thus the name.
Roti planta is stuffed with a popular brand of margarine called
Planta. Malaysians are not too creative when it comes to naming food. But the names are self explanatory.
Nasi lemak is another well-known Malaysian dish. The dish is a combination of white rice cooked in
santan (coconut milk),
sambal (chili paste with onions and anchovies), deep fried
ikan bilis (anchovies), fried peanuts, wedges of half-boiled eggs or fried eggs, slices of cucumber and curry chicken,
beef rendang or
mutton rendang.
Nasi lemak is often served on banana leaves on a plate or wrapped up in banana leaves for those in a hurry. Most Malaysian foods are spicy and bursting with flavors. Dishes are cooked with a complex combination of spices that make each dish distinct in taste, appearance and aroma.
Beef rendang is another Malaysian favorite. 20,000 miles away from Malaysia, you can still find this dish in any Malaysian restaurant in the US.
Rendang is much like dry curry. The gravy is thick and spicy. Good
rendang takes about three hours to cook so that the sauce thickens well and the beef tenderizes and fully absorbs the rich flavor of the spices.
Beef rendang is usually served with plain white rice or
nasi lemak.
Kangkung belacan is really water convolvulus cooked in what some people would consider stinky shrimp paste. On cooking with
belacan:
"You'll be well advised to ventilate your kitchen and light a scented candle; as it has a pungent scent like 'stinky cheese'"Yes, Malaysians are also well-known for our sometimes "weird" taste buds. If you like
belacan, you may also want to consider equally aromatic
salted fish,
cencaluk (another shrimp paste) and
durian (king of the fruits, this one has a scent so strong it is banned from airplanes, hotels and restaurants).
Associating and Hoping for Special TreatmentAnyway, we saw this other lady. My wife said she used to work at this Vietnamese restaurant that we frequent for the
pho (rice noodles). So we said hi, hoping she would recognize us so we don't look like idiots. At first she was puzzled, but then she smiled and remembered us. She now works at Satay as a manager of some sort. I'm guessing she's part owner because she's dressed different from the other waiters and orders people around. We chat a little and exchanged some background information. She's from Ipoh. Been in the states for 14 years. It's interesting to meet people from your home country. I guess Satay is beginning to establish itself as a place where all Malaysians in Vegas gather to meet and eat. I can't help hoping for some kind of special treatment simply because I am Malaysian too.
Special Treatment #1?We noticed there was an empty booth in the non-smoking area and the lady responded with "No... (a pause) problem" and smiled.
Roti canai was served first. The curry for the roti was excellent. The
roti was a little mushy. Seems to me it was one of those frozen
roti canais you can get at the asian supermarkets. The portion was small. But for an appetizer it's acceptable. I think it's one and a half pieces of
roti sliced into quarters.
The FoodWaiting for the main entrée seemed like forever. At one point the waitress told us our food was coming and she had asked the chef to cook faster. We didn't mind the wait. But I wondered what she meant by "cook faster". I stopped myself when I imagined the chef skipping the part where she was supposed to wash the vegetables and wait until the meat is well cooked.
While waiting my wife and I observed the interior design of the restaurant and the people who were eating there. The furnishing was made to mimic high-end restaurants. Strong straight lines with bold colors of black, red, yellow and gold. The booth where we sat had a canopy with curtains tied to both seats. I suppose it could be used to give people some privacy by closing the curtains. But then again, how many people would want that kind of privacy? Furniture is made of cheap materials although effective. I have no problem with cheap materials as long as they appear to be expensive. It's understandable you would want to cut some corners somewhere especially when you were just starting out. However, I thought the overall design lacks distinction. Being the only Malaysian restaurant in town, you have an advantage. You serve food that no one else serves. So why stop there? Re-create the Malaysian dining atmosphere in your restaurant. I think that will make your restaurant more appealing, interesting and talk of the town. You found a niche where you could be a leader in. Why would you want to go into some other niche and compete with the French and Italian restaurants in the casinos that buys million dollar original paintings just to decorate a wall?
While I played critic, the first entrée,
beef rendang, was finally served. The portion was ridiculously tiny. Two pieces of beef with a little gravy and some white rice. My immediate response to my wife was "Should we get the
kangkung belacan?" She nodded. I am a food fanatic and I think pretty much most people are. I learned presentation comes first because we see the food first. The
beef rendang was served on a giant white ceramic plate with a tiny portion in the center. I'm okay with that. It sort of creates an illusion that you are being served a big portion. And when you are served a generous portion, you are happy. But the illusion didn't quite work for me. Next, the color of the
beef rendang is just not right. Too light colored. A good
beef rendang is lightly blanketed with shredded, fried coconut flesh covered in reddish brown gravy. The two pieces of beef are too big. The beef should be cut into small cubes that can be easily fed into your mouth without a need for a steak knife. The scent has a little too much shrimp and ginger and lacks spice. As predicted the taste is just not right. I am disappointed. For a price so ridiculous for a portion so tiny, I expected the
beef rendang to taste, at the very least, right if not excellent.
The wait for the
nasi lemak was not as long. Again same big plate with tiny portions. We weren't too surprised after the
beef rendang. I told the waitress to bring us a
kangkung belacan. She didn't understand what I said and asked me to point to the entrée on the menu, thus confirming my suspicion that she is not a Malaysian. The egg was missing from the
nasi lemak. At this point, I am convinced the restauranteur did not do enough research before s/he opened the restaurant or s/he forgot what a
nasi lemak should have as sides. Naturally, the curry chicken served with the
nasi lemak had more potatoes than meat. I think skimping on little things like that could cost the business in the long run. The
ikan bilis (deep fried anchovies) looked good. There were two thin slices of cucumber. Unbelievable. You had to skimp on cucumbers too? The
sambal color was just plain wrong. It was dirty yellow. This led me to think maybe the owner is not even Malaysian. Take a look at the photo above. The
sambal is the red stuff at the top. Yeah, unless you are color blind, in which case you shouldn't be driving, you should be able to tell something must be amiss with your
sambal recipe. The white rice was just that; plain white rice. It should have been cooked in coconut milk but I doubt the chef knew that. The curry chicken was rather bland and the gravy wasn't thick enough. Cooking a good Malaysian curry chicken is very difficult to master. It takes a lot of spices and a lot of patience. Good curry chicken usually takes hours to cook.
Special Treatment #2The lady whom we talked to earlier told us the chef was stingy. So she brought us an extra serving of the very wrong
sambal. We didn't touch the extra serving because the
sambal tasted like shrimp paste when there shouldn't be any shrimp paste. But we appreciated her gesture and said thank you.
Thank goodness the k
angkung belacan was served before we finished the
nasi lemak. This was the only dish the chef got right. The gravy was thick but not too much so that the
kangkung didn't soak in it. The gravy tasted good with the stinky shrimp paste called
belacan and dried, red hot chilies. I would recommend the
kangkung belacan if you were to stop by at Satay. Just a word of caution: for some reason eating
kangkung causes drowsiness. So don't eat too much
kangkung and drive. Maybe now that Satay's in town Vegas ought to have a law against eating
kangkung and drive. But I'll leave it up to the creativity of the law enforcers to find a breathalizer for
kangkung. Perhaps the mere presence of the stinky
belacan is an indication of
Driving Under Kangkung Influence (DUKI).

We ended our night of splurging on ridiculously expensive Malaysian food that we can get four times cheaper back home with a helping of the irresistable dessert,
Air Batu Campur (ABC). It means mixed ice. It's a bowl of peanuts, sweet corn, red beans,
cincau (black jelly) and sometimes green and red jelly coverd with shaved ice, red syrup and sweetened condensed milk. The Satay version of ABC was missing the sweetened condensed milk. But it's very hard to disappoint when you are serving an artery clogger. So if you just want to meet Malaysians in Vegas but not spend too much for too little food, go to Satay and order an ABC.